Selaginella Indoor Plant
Selaginella (Selaginella) belongs to one of the oldest groups of plants - plunam. It belongs to the Selaginella family. The genus consists of about 380 species, which under natural conditions grow around the globe, with the exception of regions with a cold climate. Most species are inhabitants of rain forests, they are able to do without sunlight for months, and without decay for a long time to be in the water.
Selaginella - branching herbaceous higher spore plants, often epiphytes, among species you can find climbing, climbing, turfy, bryophytes. Selaginella can live in rocky crevices, on tree trunks and coastal stones.
Shoots - raised or creeping, with numerous root outgrowths. Their length depends on the growing conditions and reaches from 5-10 cm in a temperate climate, up to 2-3 m in humid tropics. Lianoid selaginella can reach a length of 20 m. Small, similar to flat needles about 5 mm long alternate, grow in two rows, often so dense that they partially cover each other like tiles. All of them are soft, glossy or matte, can have a different shape, color from light to dark green, in some cases with a yellow lace pattern.
Selaginella is an older plant than fern, it propagates by spores or rooting of aerial roots that have touched the ground and grows rapidly in any warm, damp place.
Selaginella Scaly or Jericho rose can grow in arid areas. Often it goes on sale in the form of a twisted brown lump of dry shoots and seems dead. But if you put it in water, the leaves that are saturated with moisture will open during the day, the shoots 10-15 cm long will straighten, turn green and "come to life" literally before our eyes. In this way, a protective mechanism is triggered - cryptobiosis, which allows the plant to survive in the dry period and wait for the rainy season.
Selaginella Vildenova grows in the form of a branchy bush with flat green shoots and bluish thin oval leaves.
Selaginella Beznoskovnaya forms moss sods. Its short stems have green oval leaves and are provided with subordinate roots.
Selaginella Martens in height grows by 20-30 cm. Its stems first grow up, then release the adventitious roots and lie down. This species has gained great popularity as an ornamental plant due to small bright green leaves forming lace patterns. There is a shape with silver leaf tips.
Selaginella Krauss is distinguished by flexible shoots up to 30 cm long, which, thanks to root outgrowths, take root quickly and create fancy carpets.
Selaginella Hooked differs in a bluish color located very tightly similar to the needles of leaves.
Selaginella Swiss stands out thanks to the light leaves perpendicular to the long winding shoots, and in a strictly defined order.
Selaginella can hardly be called a houseplant, it is more suitable for growing in terrariums, aquariums or bottle gardens. This is a very difficult plant to care for, requiring special conditions and constant attention. It is able to grow up to 30 cm in height and width, can be grown as a cover plant in large pots requiring high humidity of plants. Vegetation at selaginella occurs year round.
Temperature and lighting
Under natural conditions, the plant lives in the lowest forest tiers and perfectly tolerates partial shade. Bright sunlight inhibits selaginella, inhibits its development and leads to a loss of decorativeness. You can place the plant on the northern windows. In the shade it is highlighted for several hours a day.
The culture grows thermophilic species of selaginella, which need a steady moderate temperature throughout the year. Ideally - about 18-20 degrees. High temperature negatively affects the health of the plant and can even destroy it, contents below 12 degrees are unacceptable.
Humidity and watering
Watering and spraying selaginella need to be defended with soft water at room temperature. The soil in the pot should always be moist, overflow and stagnation of moisture at the roots are undesirable, and even a single drying of the soil will cause the death of the plant. It is desirable to water through the pan. In winter, watering is not reduced at room temperature, and when kept cool, it is reduced slightly.
Humidity should always be very high, spray selaginella several times a day. The pot will be placed on wet pebbles or in a wide pot, filling the gap with wet sphagnum or peat. It is even better to grow selaginella in a terrarium or other glass vessel where it is possible to constantly maintain high humidity.
Fertilizer and fertilizing
The plant is fertilized year round every 2 weeks with mineral top dressing.
Soil and transplant
Selaginella needs a low wide pot with holes and reliable drainage. It is better to prepare slightly acidic soil on their own, taking equal parts of sod land and peat, adding chopped moss-sphagnum. In extreme cases, you can take a ready-made substrate for ferns and add sphagnum.
Only strongly overgrown plants are transplanted into a container larger than the previous one.
Flowering and pruning
Selaginella is the highest spore plant, it does not bloom in principle. Shoots can be cut to give the plant a compact shape.
- Selaginella does not tolerate drafts.
- With age, the bases of the shoots are exposed; if necessary, they can be trimmed.
- The plant can be planted in a pot for hygrophilous large plants as a groundcover.
- Often the tips of the growing stems are light in color - this is a feature, not a disease.
- The surface of the substrate in the pot needs to be loosened regularly. With deep loosening, it is easy to damage the roots.
Propagation by seeds under indoor conditions is difficult and almost never leads to success. It is much easier to divide the plant during transplantation or root shoots.
In summer or spring, when transplanting a well-grown selaginella, it can be divided into several parts. If the roots are intertwined and the earthen lump is too dense, it can be cut with a sharp knife into several parts. If the plant grows on the windowsill, after dividing it, cover it with transparent cellophane or a glass jar and keep it at maximum humidity for a week. If you plant selaginella in a pot to another plant, cover the curtain with a plastic cup for the time of rooting.
Stem cuttings root well. Choose parts of the shoots no shorter than 3 cm that already have subordinate roots in the branches, gently pinch off and lay on the substrate, slightly sprinkling the bottom with soil. Try not to touch each other. Cover the landing with a clear film or glass jar and spray several times a day.
Pests, diseases and possible problems
- Selaginella is rarely affected by pests, but if this happens, it is undesirable to spray the plant itself with an insecticide. Handle a dense plastic bag, install spacers so that it does not touch the shoots, place the plant there and tie it. After 30 minutes, remove the selaginella and ventilate well.
- At low humidity, the tips of the stems dry. It is necessary to increase the number of sprayings.
- In the heat, the leaves first darken and then die. Reduce the temperature to 16-17 degrees.
- With a lack of nutrients, growth slows down.
- The leaves become pale, and the stems are pulled out - lack of light. Although selaginella and shade-tolerant, ultraviolet is vital for her - increase the lighting.
- The leaves became soft and drooping - there is no access to oxygen to the roots. If the reason is intensive irrigation - reduce them and regularly loosen the surface of the soil. If the substrate is excessively dense - change it regardless of the season.